Recent trip to Italy

Well, after a great month and half of being in Italy it is definitely difficult to be here. The food is not as good, it is a chore to find great coffee; the only thing I can say I am still consuming is great wine!! Thank god for my job!! So after seeing many producers of Vinifera's in Italy I need to post some photos. I'm going to start today with the 1st producer that I went and visited - Giacomo Bologna. A great visit with Nadine, the super spirits lady from Germany and the rest of the Braida crew. We were there during harvesting of the first pick wines (moscato/brachetto) and here are a few shots. I was so excited to see one of my favorite Piemontese producers and it was a thrill to be there. Got to taste through some exciting vintages coming up and their grappa that is produced by the world famous Berta distillery. More to come on my trip, but here are some pics.

Moschioni

Moschioni is no slouch. He makes big strong wines that will hold in a bottle for 20+ years. Hard to find we barely import any of these wines here to the N.W. So don't miss a chance if you have the opportunity to taste some of these wines . Here is a little info/bio:

Michele Moschioni's tiny estate is located in Cividale. An afternoon spent in his cellar is a fascinating education in the purity of expression that Friuli's indigenous red varietals are capable of achieving in the hands of a serious, passionate producer. Moschioni credits Romano Dal Forno as an early inspiration for his wines. He is also very close to Gravner, Damijan and Zidarich, all small artisan producers who craft hand-made, natural wines. Moschioni favors late harvests which can stretch into mid-October or early November. Because fruit often struggles to ripen in this northerly microclimate, in some vintages Moschioni performs a slight drying or appassimento on a portion of his grapes. As Moschioni says, he likes fat wines and these are powerful, intense offerings with dry extract levels that are off the charts. The wines are fermented using only natural yeasts. For his top bottlings - Pignolo, Schiopettino and Rosso Reâl - Moschioni uses open-top wood fermenters without temperature control. The wines all do malolactic fermentation in French oak (Allier and Tronçais, roughly 80% new) where they age for about two and a half years. The SO2 levels are minuscule and the wines see no fining or filtration prior to being bottled in accordance with the lunar phases. In short, these wines are among the most natural, unmanipulated wines readers will encounter from anywhere in the world. Consumers who want to understand the potential of indigenous varieties like Pignolo and Schiopettino owe it to themselves to check out the stunning wines of Michele Moschioni.

2004 Brunello-Looking Towards More Great Vintages to Come

As we are starting to get our 2004 Brunellos in we are very excited by what the vintage brought us. The season was close to perfect (they are actually saying that 2006 could be perfect) with just a little rain at the end of the season. As I got to taste our complete line-up about a month ago I was very impressed with how well they were drinking young. Don't get me wrong waiting is definitely the way to go with this vintage, as I think that a good 5-10 years will produce amazing wines while they mature in the bottle. As we look at the 06 and 07 vintages, the Rossos showed great fruit up-front and were great drinkers now. Canalicchio di Sopra and Castello Romitiorio's Rossos really shined, though I didn't get to taste Valdicava's or Friggiali's. These wines are just about to land here in Seattle so go find them. Need suggestions on where to pick them up - let me know. Benvenuto Brunello!!

Me and 1980 Brunate Le Coste

Recently I got the chance to sit at very special tasting in our office/Warehouse in Ronkonkoma, NY with a few of our sales people from around the country, my sales manager Gary Long and Mr Vinifera Dominic Nocerino. Dominic was in a festive mood for the holidays and opened some amazing bottles of wines. Probably the best line-up I have ever got to taste. These were wines from Dominics personal collection and not all wines that Vinifera has imported. We started with a Canaicchio di Sopra 2004 Brunello di Montalcino-it was great but obviously young. We tasted through a few spotlight wines including a 1997 Casanova di Neri and a great 1990 Brunello that no one at the table recognized the producer-this probably being my second favorite of the night. But who remembers the second placer? After, tasting a 1988 Giacosa Falleto Dominic opend a 1980 Giuseppe Rinaldi Baraolo-Brunate Le Coste. This wine stole the gold in seconds. It was so supple and rich with flowery components on the nose. The pallete delivered and really I expected it as soon as we knew the wine (Dominic was blind-tasting us on a few), but the anticipation did not fail me. It was the gold of the bunch and I will never forget that wine! It stole my heart and I now put it as my favorite wine ever tasted. So if you get a chance to taste his wines after 10+ years on the market don't miss the chance. Or go buy a bottle and let it rest. You will not be disappointed! I am still carrying around the cork as a good luck charm.

Here is a little info on Rinaldi and his wines:

Giuseppe (or Beppe as his friends call him) Rinaldi makes two Barolos, both of which are made from blends of grapes from two vineyards. “I don’t believe in the idea of labeling vineyards as first-class, second-class, third-class and so forth,” Rinaldi explains. “In the past, we always made Barolo by blending grapes from different vineyards with different characteristics and positions. For example, we would use grapes from La Morra and Barolo to give elegance, and grapes from Serralunga or Castiglione Falletto to give structure. The resulting wine had a balance of acidity, body and tannins with a lot of overall harmony. That is the real tradition. It is no coincidence that in very hot years like 2000 and 2003, the best wines come from so-called ‘second-class’ vineyards.”Rinaldi’s two Barolos are Brunate/LeCoste and Cannubi(San Lorenzo)/Ravera. The better known of the wines is the Brunate/Le Coste, which is available in larger quantities. The wine is made from a blend of about 60% Brunate fruit and 40% Le Coste fruit. The less well known, though no less important, wine is the Cannubi(San Lorenzo)/Ravera, which is produced in much smaller quantities and is therefore harder to find. The vines at Cannubi are in the San Lorenzo section, where soils are sandy and the wines generally lighter in color, and more delicate and aromatic in flavor.The Barolos are made in a rigorously traditional fashion. Fermentation and maceration take place in a 100-year-old open top wood vat for 20-30 days, without temperature control or the use of selected yeasts. The wines are aged for three and a half years exclusively in cask. In most vintages the Brunate/Le Coste is the bigger, rounder, more masculine wine while the Cannubi(San Lorenzo)/Ravera is typically the more aromatic, feminine and accessible of the two Barolos.

Mr Fontodi Giovanni Manetti

Recently I got the opportunity to meet the man behind one of my favorite producers-Fontodi. Fontodi is located in Panzano, in the heart of Chianti Classico. The majority of their vineyards are situated in a natural ampitheatre on the southern slopes of Panzano, this area is known as Conca d'Oro. The estate was acquired by the Manetti Family in 1968 and then began the production of their Chianti under Giovanni and Marco Manetti the young sons of Domizano and Dino who founded the estate. Giovanni has taken charge and pushed Fontodi to what it is today with help of the esteemed winemaker Franco Bernabei. Fontodi is a pioneer for the revival of the Chianti wines in Tuscany. Large investments were made in order to insure the proper mixture of the various subspecies of Sangiovese. The new cellar, which houses every barrel produced by the Fontodi estate came into full operation with the 1998 vintage and allows significant refinements in caring for the wines. Fontodi puts full effort into their wines and the utmost respect is given to the wine from ground to the vines to the grapes and then in harvest to the cellar. Fontodi is a Sustainable Farming estate and as of the 2008 vintage they will be certified. This is no easy task and it shows that the Manettis are loyal to the natural components of the terrior.

In their production Fontodi continues to make one of the best Chianti Classicos on the market but also produces a Chianti Classico Riserva which is a single vineyard called "Sorbo". They make this in great vintages and combine Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. The wine matures for an additional year than the Chianti Classico in a combination of barriques and botti.

After the Chiantis Fontodi makes a few other wonderful wines. Their Flaccianello della Pieve is a wine that has wowed the critiques and proven to be one of the best "Supertuscans" on the market year after year. This wine is a prime example of old meets new. They combine the tradition of Sangiovese with modernization of using only new French barriques. This wine is made in low production and after 2 years in barriques and further refinement in bottles this wine hits the market. In the 2004 vintage it scored as high as 96 points (from the Wine Advocate).

Fontodi then makes a single vineyard Syrah and single vineyard Pinot Nero. Giovanni described these wines as his hobby as he does most of the physical work with these wines. They were both planted in the late 80s and 1st bottling in 91. As we tasted the 2006 vintage of the wines he explained that the Syrah is south facing gaining more sun. On the other hand the Pinot Nero is on a west facing slope and gains less sun since because of the delicacy of the grapes. The Pinot Nero was brought from clones from Burgundy and Giovanni has spent much time in France studying both varietals. These wines are made under the label of "Case Via" and are now starting to show the age of the vines. They are both sought out by collectors so if you get a chance to buy some don't miss out!

Brigaldara's Promise to High Quality, Low Quantity

To the north of Verona and the east of Lago di Garda (Garda Lake), you can take the SP1a towards San Floriano and as you drive seeing the amazing vineyards through San Floriano, and after the rolling natural hills you will find tucked in a magnificent valley the small town of San Pietro in Cariano. This is where you’ll find the estate of Stefano Cesari, Brigaldara. This winery which has been in his family since the early 1970’s, makes some of the Venetos best Amarone della Valpolicella. They concentrate on making small production, high quality wines and have not changed their ways since they started.


AMARONE CASE VECIE 2001

This is a unique wine in that it is made from a single vineyard of special importance to the family. The vines are now on their 15th year (not super old for Veneto standards but are ageing perfectly) and have the best exposure facing to the east and at the highest elevation of 200 meters. After the traditional drying methods this wine is then aged one year in barriques (small 225 litre oak barrels) and then another 2 years in what the Italians call ‘botti’ which are large casks made of oak, these being 25 hectalitres. Only 1250 cases of this wine is made and only half of that comes to the US market. The blend is of traditional grape varietals:
Uve: Corvinone 40% Corvina 30% Rondinella 15% altre 15%.

Recent Parker reviews of their wonderful wines:

The 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a relatively straightforward wine but I loved it for its superb balance and harmony. Sweet red cherries, herbs, leather, spices and earthiness are buffered by finessed tannins as this soft-textured wine opens in the glass. This is a great introduction to Amarone. Curiously, the 2005 comes across as more advanced than the 2004, and I would choose to drink it on the young side. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. …90 pts WABrigaldara’s 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie is a very serious wine. It reveals a richer and riper personality than the Amarone, with superb volume in its dark blueberries, blackberries, spices and herbs. The full-bodied expression of fruit hides considerable structure that lurks beneath. Lingering notes of sweetness round out the long finish. Although the 2004 shows more clarity and precision than the 2003, I would have a hard time choosing between them. This is high-class Amarone all the way. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016…. 94 pts WA

I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Brigaldara. The Amarone is aged in cask and is made in a fairly approachable style, while the single-vineyard Amarone Case Vecie is a richer wine that also sees some French oak. Both wines are well worth seeking out. WA

Carpineta Fontalpino's Exciting Review in WS

Here is the write up from Last Months “Tuscany” issue, article “Special Report: The Best of Italy: 10 Italian Wineries to Watch
Producers are helping a deep-rooted industry move forward
From Wine Spectator magazine, October 31, 2008 issue
CARPINETA FONTALPINO Tuscany Owners Gioia and Filippo Cresti Winemaker Gioia Cresti Annual case production 5,830 Gioia Cresti is building a successful career as a consulting agronomist, but still finds time to make wine on her family's 217-acre estate, located just outside the Chianti Classico zone near Castelnuovo Berardenga, about 10 miles east of Siena.
Carpineta Fontalpino has been in Cresti's family since the 1960s. Gioia, 39, took over the estate with her brother, Filippo, 45, in 1990 and immediately set about replanting 44 acres of vineyards. She is currently producing some of the most exciting wines in Tuscany, including Dofana, a Sangiovese-Petit Verdot blend that earned a classic, 96-point rating in only its second vintage.
"We aimed at the highest quality possible right from the start," Cresti says, "but we had to wait for the young vines to mature to see the real results. These are coming now, and the quality is where I want it."
Cresti started experimenting with new Sangiovese and Petit Verdot clones in 2000. The vines produce loosely packed bunches with relatively few grapes per cluster, instead of the typical tight bunches where each grape hugs its neighbor.
"There's less potential for disease and rot," Cresti explains "as well as making for more even ripening. They may look a bit odd," she adds with a smile, "but I've found that the uglier the bunch, the better the wine it produces!"
The estate's winery is a simple but functional barnlike structure, which Cresti renovated in 1992. In one room there is an assortment of stainless steel and cement vats. Cresti believes in the use of cement, and scrupulously maintains her vats. A second room contains French oak barrels of various sizes, for aging the wines. In 2006, the winery debuted a Chianti Classico made from 12 acres of vineyards Cresti rents nearby. (None of the wines are currently available in the U.S. as the winery seeks a new importer.)
Cresti is also busy with her work as a consulting agronomist. She collaborates with Carlo Ferrini, one of Tuscany's best-known consulting enologists, at well-known estates such as Casanova di Neri, Petrolo and Sette Ponti, while also consulting for a half-dozen estates on her own.
"The difference between working for others and for myself," says Cresti, "is that here I can do what I like and experiment with what I like. It's fun!" —J.C.
Chianti Classico Fontalpino 2006 90 $NA; 1,665 cases made Toscana Do ut Des 2006 92 $NA; 1,665 case made Toscana Dofana 2006 96 $NA; 500 cases made

What we have in stock for Do Ut Des here in the NW

2000 Do Ut Des
90 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2000 Do Ut Des could easily pass for a 2000 Bordeaux. Somewhat internationally-styled, it exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as a big, extracted, high tannin feel in the mouth, a larger than life personality, and a massive finish. This is a seriously rich, formidable effort that requires plenty of time in the bottle. Sadly, only 250 cases were produced. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2012+.

2001 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator

Fabulous aromas in this dark red, with chocolate, berry and just a hint of toasty oak. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long and luscious finish. Rich and delicious. Gioia Cresti is a serious winemaker. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Best after 2006. 1,300 cases made. –JS
Score: 92
Release Price: $43
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2003


92 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2001 Do Ut Des, a selection of the best Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot grapes, though equally drinkable, is a horse of a different color. Intense, sweet, and spicy on the nose, with rich raspberry and cassis fruit, its powerful flavors, ample texture, and solid, silky tannins are sheer and unambiguous pleasure on the palate. Deceptively approachable, it will easily last another decade.Italy’s foxiest consulting oenologist? Beyond a shadow of a doubt, it’s Gioia Cresti, who is also in charge of the winemaking at her family’s estate just north of Siena and can demonstrate that her talents in the cellar are equal to her formidable good looks.




2002 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator

Dark color, with intense aromas of blackberry, espresso and cedar. Full-bodied, with wonderfully velvety tannins and a long, long finish. This is excellent for the vintage. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2004. 750 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $39
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2004


2003 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator

Violet, berry and currants on the nose. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a soft, caressing texture. Long and very pretty. From the personal estate of Gioia Cresti, one of Tuscany's best enologists. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2007. 1,250 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $50
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2005

91 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The size and weight are supplied by the 2003 Do ut Des, ripe and spicy in aroma, ample and dense in flavor, polished and stylish in its structure and with much class. It will easily drink well for a decade.

2004 Do Ut Des
Aromas of blackberry and sour cherry, with hints of flowers. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. A bit tight now, but a solid wine. Best after 2007. 1,500 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $60
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2006