Mr Fontodi Giovanni Manetti

Recently I got the opportunity to meet the man behind one of my favorite producers-Fontodi. Fontodi is located in Panzano, in the heart of Chianti Classico. The majority of their vineyards are situated in a natural ampitheatre on the southern slopes of Panzano, this area is known as Conca d'Oro. The estate was acquired by the Manetti Family in 1968 and then began the production of their Chianti under Giovanni and Marco Manetti the young sons of Domizano and Dino who founded the estate. Giovanni has taken charge and pushed Fontodi to what it is today with help of the esteemed winemaker Franco Bernabei. Fontodi is a pioneer for the revival of the Chianti wines in Tuscany. Large investments were made in order to insure the proper mixture of the various subspecies of Sangiovese. The new cellar, which houses every barrel produced by the Fontodi estate came into full operation with the 1998 vintage and allows significant refinements in caring for the wines. Fontodi puts full effort into their wines and the utmost respect is given to the wine from ground to the vines to the grapes and then in harvest to the cellar. Fontodi is a Sustainable Farming estate and as of the 2008 vintage they will be certified. This is no easy task and it shows that the Manettis are loyal to the natural components of the terrior.

In their production Fontodi continues to make one of the best Chianti Classicos on the market but also produces a Chianti Classico Riserva which is a single vineyard called "Sorbo". They make this in great vintages and combine Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. The wine matures for an additional year than the Chianti Classico in a combination of barriques and botti.

After the Chiantis Fontodi makes a few other wonderful wines. Their Flaccianello della Pieve is a wine that has wowed the critiques and proven to be one of the best "Supertuscans" on the market year after year. This wine is a prime example of old meets new. They combine the tradition of Sangiovese with modernization of using only new French barriques. This wine is made in low production and after 2 years in barriques and further refinement in bottles this wine hits the market. In the 2004 vintage it scored as high as 96 points (from the Wine Advocate).

Fontodi then makes a single vineyard Syrah and single vineyard Pinot Nero. Giovanni described these wines as his hobby as he does most of the physical work with these wines. They were both planted in the late 80s and 1st bottling in 91. As we tasted the 2006 vintage of the wines he explained that the Syrah is south facing gaining more sun. On the other hand the Pinot Nero is on a west facing slope and gains less sun since because of the delicacy of the grapes. The Pinot Nero was brought from clones from Burgundy and Giovanni has spent much time in France studying both varietals. These wines are made under the label of "Case Via" and are now starting to show the age of the vines. They are both sought out by collectors so if you get a chance to buy some don't miss out!

Brigaldara's Promise to High Quality, Low Quantity

To the north of Verona and the east of Lago di Garda (Garda Lake), you can take the SP1a towards San Floriano and as you drive seeing the amazing vineyards through San Floriano, and after the rolling natural hills you will find tucked in a magnificent valley the small town of San Pietro in Cariano. This is where you’ll find the estate of Stefano Cesari, Brigaldara. This winery which has been in his family since the early 1970’s, makes some of the Venetos best Amarone della Valpolicella. They concentrate on making small production, high quality wines and have not changed their ways since they started.


AMARONE CASE VECIE 2001

This is a unique wine in that it is made from a single vineyard of special importance to the family. The vines are now on their 15th year (not super old for Veneto standards but are ageing perfectly) and have the best exposure facing to the east and at the highest elevation of 200 meters. After the traditional drying methods this wine is then aged one year in barriques (small 225 litre oak barrels) and then another 2 years in what the Italians call ‘botti’ which are large casks made of oak, these being 25 hectalitres. Only 1250 cases of this wine is made and only half of that comes to the US market. The blend is of traditional grape varietals:
Uve: Corvinone 40% Corvina 30% Rondinella 15% altre 15%.

Recent Parker reviews of their wonderful wines:

The 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a relatively straightforward wine but I loved it for its superb balance and harmony. Sweet red cherries, herbs, leather, spices and earthiness are buffered by finessed tannins as this soft-textured wine opens in the glass. This is a great introduction to Amarone. Curiously, the 2005 comes across as more advanced than the 2004, and I would choose to drink it on the young side. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. …90 pts WABrigaldara’s 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie is a very serious wine. It reveals a richer and riper personality than the Amarone, with superb volume in its dark blueberries, blackberries, spices and herbs. The full-bodied expression of fruit hides considerable structure that lurks beneath. Lingering notes of sweetness round out the long finish. Although the 2004 shows more clarity and precision than the 2003, I would have a hard time choosing between them. This is high-class Amarone all the way. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016…. 94 pts WA

I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Brigaldara. The Amarone is aged in cask and is made in a fairly approachable style, while the single-vineyard Amarone Case Vecie is a richer wine that also sees some French oak. Both wines are well worth seeking out. WA

Carpineta Fontalpino's Exciting Review in WS

Here is the write up from Last Months “Tuscany” issue, article “Special Report: The Best of Italy: 10 Italian Wineries to Watch
Producers are helping a deep-rooted industry move forward
From Wine Spectator magazine, October 31, 2008 issue
CARPINETA FONTALPINO Tuscany Owners Gioia and Filippo Cresti Winemaker Gioia Cresti Annual case production 5,830 Gioia Cresti is building a successful career as a consulting agronomist, but still finds time to make wine on her family's 217-acre estate, located just outside the Chianti Classico zone near Castelnuovo Berardenga, about 10 miles east of Siena.
Carpineta Fontalpino has been in Cresti's family since the 1960s. Gioia, 39, took over the estate with her brother, Filippo, 45, in 1990 and immediately set about replanting 44 acres of vineyards. She is currently producing some of the most exciting wines in Tuscany, including Dofana, a Sangiovese-Petit Verdot blend that earned a classic, 96-point rating in only its second vintage.
"We aimed at the highest quality possible right from the start," Cresti says, "but we had to wait for the young vines to mature to see the real results. These are coming now, and the quality is where I want it."
Cresti started experimenting with new Sangiovese and Petit Verdot clones in 2000. The vines produce loosely packed bunches with relatively few grapes per cluster, instead of the typical tight bunches where each grape hugs its neighbor.
"There's less potential for disease and rot," Cresti explains "as well as making for more even ripening. They may look a bit odd," she adds with a smile, "but I've found that the uglier the bunch, the better the wine it produces!"
The estate's winery is a simple but functional barnlike structure, which Cresti renovated in 1992. In one room there is an assortment of stainless steel and cement vats. Cresti believes in the use of cement, and scrupulously maintains her vats. A second room contains French oak barrels of various sizes, for aging the wines. In 2006, the winery debuted a Chianti Classico made from 12 acres of vineyards Cresti rents nearby. (None of the wines are currently available in the U.S. as the winery seeks a new importer.)
Cresti is also busy with her work as a consulting agronomist. She collaborates with Carlo Ferrini, one of Tuscany's best-known consulting enologists, at well-known estates such as Casanova di Neri, Petrolo and Sette Ponti, while also consulting for a half-dozen estates on her own.
"The difference between working for others and for myself," says Cresti, "is that here I can do what I like and experiment with what I like. It's fun!" —J.C.
Chianti Classico Fontalpino 2006 90 $NA; 1,665 cases made Toscana Do ut Des 2006 92 $NA; 1,665 case made Toscana Dofana 2006 96 $NA; 500 cases made

What we have in stock for Do Ut Des here in the NW

2000 Do Ut Des
90 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2000 Do Ut Des could easily pass for a 2000 Bordeaux. Somewhat internationally-styled, it exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as a big, extracted, high tannin feel in the mouth, a larger than life personality, and a massive finish. This is a seriously rich, formidable effort that requires plenty of time in the bottle. Sadly, only 250 cases were produced. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2012+.

2001 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator

Fabulous aromas in this dark red, with chocolate, berry and just a hint of toasty oak. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long and luscious finish. Rich and delicious. Gioia Cresti is a serious winemaker. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Best after 2006. 1,300 cases made. –JS
Score: 92
Release Price: $43
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2003


92 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2001 Do Ut Des, a selection of the best Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot grapes, though equally drinkable, is a horse of a different color. Intense, sweet, and spicy on the nose, with rich raspberry and cassis fruit, its powerful flavors, ample texture, and solid, silky tannins are sheer and unambiguous pleasure on the palate. Deceptively approachable, it will easily last another decade.Italy’s foxiest consulting oenologist? Beyond a shadow of a doubt, it’s Gioia Cresti, who is also in charge of the winemaking at her family’s estate just north of Siena and can demonstrate that her talents in the cellar are equal to her formidable good looks.




2002 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator

Dark color, with intense aromas of blackberry, espresso and cedar. Full-bodied, with wonderfully velvety tannins and a long, long finish. This is excellent for the vintage. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2004. 750 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $39
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2004


2003 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator

Violet, berry and currants on the nose. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a soft, caressing texture. Long and very pretty. From the personal estate of Gioia Cresti, one of Tuscany's best enologists. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2007. 1,250 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $50
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2005

91 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The size and weight are supplied by the 2003 Do ut Des, ripe and spicy in aroma, ample and dense in flavor, polished and stylish in its structure and with much class. It will easily drink well for a decade.

2004 Do Ut Des
Aromas of blackberry and sour cherry, with hints of flowers. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. A bit tight now, but a solid wine. Best after 2007. 1,500 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $60
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2006

Romitorio Visit

We here in the Northwest just had the pleasure of having Filippo Chia the director of Castello Romitiorio in town. It was a great time and we were all very enthused to showcase his wonderful wines. In our market we have 3 wines and each is special and different.

Below you see Filippo, Lindsay, Marco and the wine director of Assaggio in downtown.

1st they have the Morellino di Scanscano which is a DOC from Scanscano. "The California of Italy", Scansano is located in Southwest Toscana (Tuscany) and is known for a warmer climate with coastal winds. The beautiful blue label showcases the art of his father Sandro Chia (who actually does the art on all the labels). This wine is a little lighter than the other 2 and in the 2006 vintage is a blend of Sangiovese, Petit Verdot (5%) and Syrah (5%). They change the blend every year only blending together the best of whatever varietal they believe had a good year and harvest. You can find this great wine at Purple Cafe in Kirkland, Via Tribunali, Grape Choice in Kirkland and Wicked Cellars in Everett to name a few. We did a tasting in Everett at Wicked Cellars and here you see Helmut, myself and Filippo.

Romitorio's benchmark wine and the 1st wine they ever produced is the Romito. In Italian Romitorio means hermitage and Romito is a hermit so Filippo explained that on the front is the hermit who only comes out in the best vintage. This is true for the Romito di Romitorio; it is only produced in the best vintages and 04 as we currently have was a great year in Tuscany. The blend on this wine comes 60% from Sangiovese Grosso. These are the same vineyards they use in their Brunello di Montalcino. Then there is 20% from Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% from Canaiolo. These wines make up an amazingly elegant blend that can age for up to 15 years.

A Wonderful wine-makers dinner at Firenze in Bellevue thanks to Salvatori and friends.

Last, but not least by any means is Romitorio's Brunello di Montalcino. This generally comes from 2 different sites within the Brunello DOCG and is a blend of those 2 sites. However in the 2003 vintage it was only derived from their more elevated site because of the high heats. The grapes from the elevated site did not get too much sun as the ones from the lower site. Romitorio only believes in using the best grapes for their wines and thus the Brunello production went from 3000 cases to 1000 cases since they used only the grapes from the more elevated site. This in turns assures that their wines will last while cellared. A wonderful wine that was in the top 15 of the vintage from sceptics this wine can last 15 years.

Fontodi Does it Again 95 Points

Coming to the Seattle market in late August/ early September:

Fontodi’s much sought after Chianti Classico Riserva cru Sorbo scored 95 points from Antonio Galloni of Wine Enthusiast below are the full notes:

2004 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo
Fontodi A Sangiovese Dry Red Table wine from
Panzano, Classico, Chianti, Tuscany, Italy

Source
Reviewer
Rating
Maturity
Current (Release) Cost
Wine Advocate # 177Jun 2008
Antonio Galloni
95
Drink 2012 - 2024
$47-$48 (69)
The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is an explosive wine endowed with a layered, sumptuous expression of sweet dark fruit. Menthol, licorice and floral overtones develop in the glass, adding further complexity. This stunningly beautiful wine offers tremendous persistence yet it will require patience as its structural components are formidable. I tasted the Vigna del Sorbo several times, including alongside Felsina’s Riserva Rancia, consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei’s other top-notch Riserva. Both wines were exceptional, but the Vigna del Sorbo showed a touch more freshness typical of wines from Panzano. Simply put, 2004 is a phenomenal vintage for this wine. Vigna del Sorbo is made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon which was grafted onto the rootstocks of the white varieties that were previously planted in the vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.This is another set of top-notch releases from proprietor Giovanni Manetti and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei. Unfortunately as we go to press the 2006 Chianti Classico is still in barrel awaiting final assembling and bottling. I tasted various lots in barrel, though, and the wine is very promising. I will add a tasting note to our website, www.erobertparker.com as soon as I have an opportunity to taste the finished wine.

Also great in this vintage is the Chianti Classico which comes from a blend of different sites.

No slouch itself (90 points in current vintage) here are the notes for it:

2004 Fontodi Chianti Classico
Fontodi A Sangiovese Dry Red Table wine from
Classico, Chianti, Tuscany, Italy

Source
Reviewer
Rating
Maturity
Current (Release) Cost
Wine Advocate # 171Jun 2007
Antonio Galloni
90
Drink 2007 - 2012
$25-$42 (32)
The estate’s 2004 Chianti Classico shows the pedigree of its superior vintage. A dark ruby, it offers gorgeous aromatics along with plenty of clean, vibrant red cherry fruit and an almost weightless, super-elegant personality. It is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity:2007-2012.

Vineyard notes on Fontodi:
The vineyards at Fontodi, comprising of 67 hectares, are wholly situated in the valley of the Conca D'oro (the Golden Basin) which lies to the south of the town of Panzano and has an average altitude of 400m above sea level. The southern aspect of the vineyards and their position in a natural amphitheatre provide optimum climatic conditions to achieve perfect ripening for the grapes and therefore wines of great character and structure. The natural marl soil ensures perfect drainage and the roots of the vines grow down deeply encouraging the absorption of the minerals needed for their metabolism.

VERDICCHIO CLASSSICO DOC- “ DONNA GINEVRA”

Verdicchio is a native variety typical of Castelli di Jesi, an area of Central-Eastern Italy with a micro climate very favourable for the grapes.

It is said that the most expert winegrowers of the Vallesina area were the Benedettini monks during the XII and XIII centuries.
On this particularly fertile soil surrounding Staffolo, perfect for grape growing, the message has been well received setting a good example. According to the legend, in the XV century the "Lanzichenecchi" mercenaries were on the look out for land and houses to pillage and plunder. They went no further than the gates of Staffolo because they were won over by the Verdicchio of this area.
These grapes have unique characteristic as they do not produce results if grown in any other area besides the Marche region; this makes the “terroir” concept very important for the Verdicchio wine.

The Count Giovanni Baldeschi Balleani has a particular care of the cultivation, with natural methods and pruning techniques that allow a very low return by hectare, all this to favor quality.

The vintage is made in boxes at the middle of October, after the wine ferments and has only self scented notes, with a controlled temperature. The wine is left to deposit naturally and then is filtered with soft technique in order to maintain the structure and the bouquet.

Tasting: Bright, very pale gold color. Aromas of pears and white peaches LEAP from the glass accompanied by notes of minerals and pale honey. The palate is sprightly and intense with very well defined flavors of bitter almond, iodine, lime zest, and grapefruit juice. The wine is super fresh and finishes with great length.

Pairing: fish, white meats, ham, fresh cheese

Valdicava Rosso di Montalcino

From the # 1 producing Brunello producer in 2 of the last three vintages, and boasting scores as high as 100 and 98 points from James Suckling in those vintages comes Valdicava’s Rosso di Montalcino.

From the famous hills of Montalcino, south of Siena, Vincenzo Abruzzese, the estate owner, has brought this now esteemed estate to status of the elite. But, Abruzzese has not done this light heartily; he is known as being a work horse and has 2 of the most reputable names on his side in winemaker Attilio Pagil and agronomist Andrea Paoletti.

The family estate of Abruzzese was acquired in 1953 when Vincenzo’s Grandfather Bramante Abruzzese bought the 10 hectares in the middle of the valley. Bramante did not immediately make wine from his grapes, but did vinicate them and sell them. It was not until 1968 that Bramante decided to make his own wine and bottled Valdicava for the 1st time. Vincenzo took over the estate in 1987 after his grandfather announced his retirement.

With little money Vincenzo took over the estate and was known to work day and night. Valdicava has now shown great success, but Vincenzo strives to keep the vineyards small and keep the yields the same, concentrating on producing only the best.

Another great thing about Valdicava is that it is and has always been 100% organic.

The rosso comes from a blend of 4 different vineyards and is the many of the same vineyards that are used for their astounding Brunello di Montalcino.

Tasting notes:
A deep dark garnet, its lovely plum, leather, herb and mineral nose is admirably pure and focused, and smooth and powerful flavors are more those of Brunello than a Rosso. Long, intense, and vibrant, this is notable juice, and will last. Robert Parker

Food Pairing: meat, game, pork, aged cheeses, risotto with mushrooms