Here is the write up from Last Months “Tuscany” issue, article “Special Report: The Best of Italy: 10 Italian Wineries to Watch
Producers are helping a deep-rooted industry move forward
From Wine Spectator magazine, October 31, 2008 issue
CARPINETA FONTALPINO Tuscany Owners Gioia and Filippo Cresti Winemaker Gioia Cresti Annual case production 5,830 Gioia Cresti is building a successful career as a consulting agronomist, but still finds time to make wine on her family's 217-acre estate, located just outside the Chianti Classico zone near Castelnuovo Berardenga, about 10 miles east of Siena.
Carpineta Fontalpino has been in Cresti's family since the 1960s. Gioia, 39, took over the estate with her brother, Filippo, 45, in 1990 and immediately set about replanting 44 acres of vineyards. She is currently producing some of the most exciting wines in Tuscany, including Dofana, a Sangiovese-Petit Verdot blend that earned a classic, 96-point rating in only its second vintage.
"We aimed at the highest quality possible right from the start," Cresti says, "but we had to wait for the young vines to mature to see the real results. These are coming now, and the quality is where I want it."
Cresti started experimenting with new Sangiovese and Petit Verdot clones in 2000. The vines produce loosely packed bunches with relatively few grapes per cluster, instead of the typical tight bunches where each grape hugs its neighbor.
"There's less potential for disease and rot," Cresti explains "as well as making for more even ripening. They may look a bit odd," she adds with a smile, "but I've found that the uglier the bunch, the better the wine it produces!"
The estate's winery is a simple but functional barnlike structure, which Cresti renovated in 1992. In one room there is an assortment of stainless steel and cement vats. Cresti believes in the use of cement, and scrupulously maintains her vats. A second room contains French oak barrels of various sizes, for aging the wines. In 2006, the winery debuted a Chianti Classico made from 12 acres of vineyards Cresti rents nearby. (None of the wines are currently available in the U.S. as the winery seeks a new importer.)
Cresti is also busy with her work as a consulting agronomist. She collaborates with Carlo Ferrini, one of Tuscany's best-known consulting enologists, at well-known estates such as Casanova di Neri, Petrolo and Sette Ponti, while also consulting for a half-dozen estates on her own.
"The difference between working for others and for myself," says Cresti, "is that here I can do what I like and experiment with what I like. It's fun!" —J.C.
Chianti Classico Fontalpino 2006 90 $NA; 1,665 cases made Toscana Do ut Des 2006 92 $NA; 1,665 case made Toscana Dofana 2006 96 $NA; 500 cases made
What we have in stock for Do Ut Des here in the NW
2000 Do Ut Des
90 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2000 Do Ut Des could easily pass for a 2000 Bordeaux. Somewhat internationally-styled, it exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as a big, extracted, high tannin feel in the mouth, a larger than life personality, and a massive finish. This is a seriously rich, formidable effort that requires plenty of time in the bottle. Sadly, only 250 cases were produced. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2012+.
2001 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator
Fabulous aromas in this dark red, with chocolate, berry and just a hint of toasty oak. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long and luscious finish. Rich and delicious. Gioia Cresti is a serious winemaker. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Best after 2006. 1,300 cases made. –JS
Score: 92
Release Price: $43
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2003
92 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2001 Do Ut Des, a selection of the best Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot grapes, though equally drinkable, is a horse of a different color. Intense, sweet, and spicy on the nose, with rich raspberry and cassis fruit, its powerful flavors, ample texture, and solid, silky tannins are sheer and unambiguous pleasure on the palate. Deceptively approachable, it will easily last another decade.Italy’s foxiest consulting oenologist? Beyond a shadow of a doubt, it’s Gioia Cresti, who is also in charge of the winemaking at her family’s estate just north of Siena and can demonstrate that her talents in the cellar are equal to her formidable good looks.
2002 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator
Dark color, with intense aromas of blackberry, espresso and cedar. Full-bodied, with wonderfully velvety tannins and a long, long finish. This is excellent for the vintage. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2004. 750 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $39
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2004
2003 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator
Violet, berry and currants on the nose. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a soft, caressing texture. Long and very pretty. From the personal estate of Gioia Cresti, one of Tuscany's best enologists. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2007. 1,250 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $50
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2005
91 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The size and weight are supplied by the 2003 Do ut Des, ripe and spicy in aroma, ample and dense in flavor, polished and stylish in its structure and with much class. It will easily drink well for a decade.
2004 Do Ut Des
Aromas of blackberry and sour cherry, with hints of flowers. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. A bit tight now, but a solid wine. Best after 2007. 1,500 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $60
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2006
Producers are helping a deep-rooted industry move forward
From Wine Spectator magazine, October 31, 2008 issue
CARPINETA FONTALPINO Tuscany Owners Gioia and Filippo Cresti Winemaker Gioia Cresti Annual case production 5,830 Gioia Cresti is building a successful career as a consulting agronomist, but still finds time to make wine on her family's 217-acre estate, located just outside the Chianti Classico zone near Castelnuovo Berardenga, about 10 miles east of Siena.
Carpineta Fontalpino has been in Cresti's family since the 1960s. Gioia, 39, took over the estate with her brother, Filippo, 45, in 1990 and immediately set about replanting 44 acres of vineyards. She is currently producing some of the most exciting wines in Tuscany, including Dofana, a Sangiovese-Petit Verdot blend that earned a classic, 96-point rating in only its second vintage.
"We aimed at the highest quality possible right from the start," Cresti says, "but we had to wait for the young vines to mature to see the real results. These are coming now, and the quality is where I want it."
Cresti started experimenting with new Sangiovese and Petit Verdot clones in 2000. The vines produce loosely packed bunches with relatively few grapes per cluster, instead of the typical tight bunches where each grape hugs its neighbor.
"There's less potential for disease and rot," Cresti explains "as well as making for more even ripening. They may look a bit odd," she adds with a smile, "but I've found that the uglier the bunch, the better the wine it produces!"
The estate's winery is a simple but functional barnlike structure, which Cresti renovated in 1992. In one room there is an assortment of stainless steel and cement vats. Cresti believes in the use of cement, and scrupulously maintains her vats. A second room contains French oak barrels of various sizes, for aging the wines. In 2006, the winery debuted a Chianti Classico made from 12 acres of vineyards Cresti rents nearby. (None of the wines are currently available in the U.S. as the winery seeks a new importer.)
Cresti is also busy with her work as a consulting agronomist. She collaborates with Carlo Ferrini, one of Tuscany's best-known consulting enologists, at well-known estates such as Casanova di Neri, Petrolo and Sette Ponti, while also consulting for a half-dozen estates on her own.
"The difference between working for others and for myself," says Cresti, "is that here I can do what I like and experiment with what I like. It's fun!" —J.C.
Chianti Classico Fontalpino 2006 90 $NA; 1,665 cases made Toscana Do ut Des 2006 92 $NA; 1,665 case made Toscana Dofana 2006 96 $NA; 500 cases made
What we have in stock for Do Ut Des here in the NW
2000 Do Ut Des
90 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2000 Do Ut Des could easily pass for a 2000 Bordeaux. Somewhat internationally-styled, it exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as a big, extracted, high tannin feel in the mouth, a larger than life personality, and a massive finish. This is a seriously rich, formidable effort that requires plenty of time in the bottle. Sadly, only 250 cases were produced. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2012+.
2001 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator
Fabulous aromas in this dark red, with chocolate, berry and just a hint of toasty oak. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long and luscious finish. Rich and delicious. Gioia Cresti is a serious winemaker. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Best after 2006. 1,300 cases made. –JS
Score: 92
Release Price: $43
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2003
92 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The 2001 Do Ut Des, a selection of the best Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot grapes, though equally drinkable, is a horse of a different color. Intense, sweet, and spicy on the nose, with rich raspberry and cassis fruit, its powerful flavors, ample texture, and solid, silky tannins are sheer and unambiguous pleasure on the palate. Deceptively approachable, it will easily last another decade.Italy’s foxiest consulting oenologist? Beyond a shadow of a doubt, it’s Gioia Cresti, who is also in charge of the winemaking at her family’s estate just north of Siena and can demonstrate that her talents in the cellar are equal to her formidable good looks.
2002 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator
Dark color, with intense aromas of blackberry, espresso and cedar. Full-bodied, with wonderfully velvety tannins and a long, long finish. This is excellent for the vintage. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2004. 750 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $39
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 15, 2004
2003 Do Ut Des
Wine Spectator
Violet, berry and currants on the nose. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a soft, caressing texture. Long and very pretty. From the personal estate of Gioia Cresti, one of Tuscany's best enologists. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best after 2007. 1,250 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $50
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2005
91 Points The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker)
The size and weight are supplied by the 2003 Do ut Des, ripe and spicy in aroma, ample and dense in flavor, polished and stylish in its structure and with much class. It will easily drink well for a decade.
2004 Do Ut Des
Aromas of blackberry and sour cherry, with hints of flowers. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. A bit tight now, but a solid wine. Best after 2007. 1,500 cases made. –JS
Score: 90
Release Price: $60
Country: ItalyRegion: Tuscany
Issue: Oct 31, 2006
